Mythic Beasts meets most my requirements. They seem like a normal business – no VC funding, UK based – although of course you can never tell. The little support I’ve needed has been good: quick, friendly and via email. It feels different from the shiny, smiley, enshittifying, Arc-type bullshit that you normally can’t avoid stepping in. Down to the 2003 website.
Technically, it’s perfect: 5GB storage, 100GB bandwidth, SFTP, as many domains and subdomains as I like, a database should I want to go down the WordPress route at any point. It costs three quid a month.
Short of setting up some hosting with a group of like minded ecocommunists, this is probably the best I can do.